I’m a food research fanatic: if I know we’re heading out I’ve got all the best nearby dining options mapped out ahead of time in case I find myself in a food emergency (you never know when it’ll strike). The new Honeycomb however is situated on a quaint albeit slightly awkward corner away from the shops, bars and cinemas of Paddington and Kings Cross, so it’s been on my radar for a while now (since I spotted it on Lee Tran Lam’s blog) but I was lying in wait for a good excuse to go.
Auspiciously, my momentarily benevolent sister offered to take me out for lunch to celebrate my old age and so the two of us ladies rock up at Andy Bunn’s newest venture one late Saturday arvo and nestle in at a table along the cushioned window bay.
San Pellegrino Limonata $5 + Cappuccino $3.5
I expected the traditional black board menu to take pride of place on the wall but maybe in a small move away from drawing one too many parallels with Cafe Sopra it’s been taken down and replaced with a slim folded paper menu. The clientele so far seems to be mostly locals dropping by for a coffee and panini with their Herald or a glass of wine with pasta during their weekend catchup. The service is simple and friendly and our chirpy Smartie-blue shod waitress is quick to greet us, seat us and recite the daily specials.
Wagyu bresaola with pear, parmesan, watercress $23
It was a really hot afternoon so we opted for the easy simplicity of the bresaola dish; the sweetness of the thick balsamic and pear slices a classic match for the rich marbled sheets of beef.
Orrechetti with prawn, chilli, garlic & lemon $24
While we’re here we couldn’t miss out on the pasta. The chunks of prawns were fantastically fresh and a perfectly sized pairing to the orrechetti.
Cabbage salad with reggiano and aged balsamic $16
Tossing up between the plethora of salads and sides we left the choice up to our waitress who suggested the cabbage salad. We didn’t expect much from cabbage (who does) but little did we realise this was a famous Bunn creation: boldly peppered and served with a generous dousing of grated reggiano, the first mouthful was a pleasant punch to the palate.
Banoffee pie $14
Dessert time rolled round and we thought to ask our waitress which was her favourite (turns out it was a tie between the banoffee pie and the semifreddo). We tried to nudge her into declaring which was best but it was probably easier to ask the parents strolling by which of their children was the favourite.
In my experience a small serving of banoffee pie can fill you up quickly, the culmination of digestive biscuits, cream and condensed milk can weigh down the most avid sweet-tooth. Bunn’s baby however is really light, with no single element overpowering the other; the sweetness of the banana shines and the telling specks of vanilla bean in the cream has been said to bring a tear to a young girl’s eye.
It’s now over a month old and this little hive is getting busy. Located on a quiet corner of Darlinghurst most of the fans are (still) locals just taking it easy. The menu is simple but varied and can cater to your desire for a bowl of muesli or a three course meal including lamb ragu, field mushrooms and honeycomb parfait. Completely without pretension, this is a idyllic place to visit if you’re keen to try Bunn’s Italian in a quiet nook of town without a queue in sight.
a. 354 Liverpool Street Darlinghurst
t. 9331 3387